But there is another side of tje Tradescantia genus that many people never hear about. Tradescantias that do not live indoors at all. Instead, they grow outside in the garden, come back year after year, and produce some of the most beautiful flowers.

These are the frost hardy Tradescantias, like Andersoniana, Virginiana, and Ohiensis.

What Are Frost Hardy Tradescantias?

Most Tradescantias come from warmer climates and are grown indoors as houseplants. But some species come from North America and Mexico and can handle cold temperatures. These are the frost hardy Tradescantias.

The most well known ones are Tradescantia Virginiana, Tradescantia Ohiensis, and the hybrid group Tradescantia Andersoniana. In the wild, these plants grow in open areas such as grasslands, but they have also become popular garden plants.

These species are perennial plants with upright stems, long grass like leaves, and a clumping growth habit.

Unlike the tropical Tradescantias we grow for their colourful leaves, these are mainly grown for their flowers. The blooms usually range from blue, purple, white, and pink and have the classic three petals that Tradescantias are known for. Each flower only lasts a day, but the plants keep producing new ones all summer.

They die back completely in winter, which can look a little dramatic the first time you see it. But the roots stay alive underground, waiting for warmer days to return.

When spring finally arrives, new shoots slowly start to appear from the soil. Every year the clump becomes a little bigger, and the plant gets stronger and fuller.

There are around 30 species in total, along with a large number of cultivars that are grown as hardy garden plants.

How They Differ From Tropical Tradescantias

If you mostly grow Tradescantias indoors, Andersonianas and the other hardy species might look a little surprising at first. They are quite different from the tropical varieties many of us keep as houseplants.

Tropical Tradescantias are usually grown for their colourful foliage. They have leaves in all kinds of colours and patterns, and often grow in a creeping way, crawling along the ground and putting down roots wherever they touch. This makes them perfect for hanging pots. Hardy Tradescantias, on the other hand, grow upright in clumps and have long, grass like leaves.

Another big difference is what we grow them for. Tropical Tradescantias are loved for their leaf colours and patterns, while hardy Tradescantias are mainly grown for their flowers. One thing they do have in common is that each flower only lasts one day. But the plants produce new ones constantly, which means they can flower for weeks or even months.

And of course, the biggest difference is that these Tradescantias can survive freezing temperatures, something the tropical ones simply cannot do

Why I Love Andersonianas

I only started my Andersoniana journey two years ago, when I bought my first two plants, Bilberry Ice and Ocean Blue. I did not know what to expect, but I quickly fell in love with their colourful flowers.

For me, Andersonianas are a perfect way to bring Tradescantias into the garden. After spending so much time growing the tropical ones indoors, it feels a bit magical to see a Tradescantia thriving outside year after year. I do not have to watch them die back every winter like the tropical ones I plant outdoors, because I know they will return in spring.

What I love most is the flowers. They may only last for a day, but the plants keep producing new ones constantly, which means they can flower all summer long. Some varieties have soft pink flowers, others deep purple or bright blue, and they always catch my eye when I walk through the garden. Their flowers are also bigger than those of the tropical ones.

I also love how easy they are to grow. Once established, they mostly take care of themselves. Every winter the foliage disappears completely, and every spring they come back again as if nothing happened

Care Tips

Andersonianas are very easy plants to grow, which is one of the reasons I enjoy them so much. Once established in the garden, they are quite forgiving and do well in many different conditions.

They grow best in a bright spot. Full sun usually gives the most flowers, but they also grow well in partial shade. If the plant gets less light, it will still grow nicely, but it may produce fewer blooms.

The soil should be moist but well draining. Andersonianas are not very picky and can grow in many different soil types, but they do best in soil that holds some moisture without staying wet for too long. Adding compost can help improve the soil and give the plants extra nutrients.

During warm periods it is a good idea to water them regularly, especially if the weather is dry. While they can handle short dry spells, they grow and flower much better when the soil stays slightly moist.

They also do not need much fertilizer. Feeding them once in early spring, when new growth begins, is usually enough for the whole season. You can also add a little compost during the summer if you want to give them an extra boost.

One final tip is to give them enough space. Andersonianas grow in clumps and slowly spread over time, so planting them directly in the ground usually works better than growing them in pots.

However, once they are planted in the ground it can be difficult to get rid of them. Their roots spread underground and can travel quite far, so you may find new shoots popping up some distance from where you first planted them.

Because of this, when I am unsure if I want to plant one permanently, I keep it in a large nursery pot that I sink into the ground. The roots can still grow through the drainage holes, but it keeps the plant a bit more contained for a while

My Andersonianas

Over the past couple of years I have slowly collected quite a few Andersonianas. By now I have close to 30 different varieties, plus one Tradescantia ohiensis and one Tradescantia virginiana.

I seem to have a soft spot for the pink and white varieties. They look so delicate in the garden and really stand out among all the green. That said, the deep purple colour of Sweet Kate is also absolutely beautiful and impossible to ignore when it is in flower.

I was a little worried after this winter, which was unusually cold. Andersonianas are supposed to tolerate frost, but I have heard mixed things about how much cold they can actually handle.

So I felt very relieved a few days ago when I started to see new shoots popping up from the soil. Most of the varieties seem to be coming back just fine, even the ones that had the least protection during the winter. It is always such a nice moment when the first new growth appears and you realise the plants made it through another season

If you enjoy Tradescantias but live in a colder climate, Andersonianas are definitely worth trying. They bring colour to the garden all summer and come back again the next year.

Do you grow any hardy Tradescantias in your garden? I would love to hear about them.

.Until next time,

Katja

So today we are doing something a little different. Instead of talking about care tips or favourite varieties, we are turning it into a quiz. Answer the questions and at the end you will find out which Tradescantia matches your personality. Let’s see if it feels accurate.

Tradescantia of the Week: Zebrina Leprechaun

Leprechaun has only been around for a couple of years. It was registered in 2023. The plant was bred in 2021 as an open pollinated seedling, believed to be a cross between Tradescantia zebrina ‘Purple Plush’ and Tradescantia zebrina ‘Little Hill’. It was bred, registered, and introduced by Helen Winnington in Belfast, Northern Ireland, and later named by Inge Gazi.

Leprechaun has slightly smaller leaves than many other zebrinas, and they are covered in long, soft hairs.

Its seed parents, Little Hill has smooth, hairless leaves, while Purple Plush is hairy, without the silver stripes. Leprechaun combines the best of both, with fuzzy leaves and beautiful stripes.

It belongs to the zebrina species, which is probably the most common and best known indoor Tradescantia species. It is a creeping plant with slightly succulent stems and pointed leaves that range from green to deep purple, often, but not always, with two shimmering silver bands. There are more cultivars of zebrina than of any other tropical Tradescantia species.

This picture shows Leprechaun together with Little Hill and Purple Plush so you can see the differences.

Tradescantia quiz - Which One Are You?

So here it is, the Tradescantia quiz. Find out which Tradescantia suits your personality best. All you have to do is read each question and choose the answer that fits you best. Keep track of your letters as you go.

When you are done, count which letter you picked the most. Then scroll down to see which Tradescantia matches your personality.

Let’s Get Started!

1. How would your friends describe you?

A. A little dramatic, but in the best way.

B. Calm and easy to be around.

C. High maintenance and proud of it.

D. Sweet, social, and always growing.

2. How do you handle attention?

A. I love it. The more the better.

B. I do not need the spotlight to thrive.

C. If I do not get enough attention, I will show it.

D. I enjoy it, but I am fine sharing the stage.1.

3. Your plant care style is:

A. I try my best, but I sometimes forget to water.

B. I love experimenting. Different soils, different light, I test everything.

C. I like control. I check my plants often and notice every small change.

D. I want something easy that just grows without drama.

4. Your home light situation is:

A. Bright and sunny.

D. It is not the brightest, but I make it work.

C. I have grow lights and I am not afraid to use them.

B. Medium light, but not direct sun all day.

5. When something is not perfect, you:

A. I overthink it, research everything, then realize it was not that serious.

B. Stay calm. It will probably work out.

C. React immediately. Something must be done.

D. Trim, adjust, move on.

6. Your growth style would be:

A. Upright and bold.

B. Fast and flowing over the edge of the pot.

C. Strong and structured.

D. Quick and slightly all over the place.

7. When life gets busy, you:

A. Might get a little dramatic if things are not right.

B. Adapt and keep going.

C. Struggle if your needs are not met.

D. Bounce back quickly, even if you have a few setbacks.

8. Your vibe is:

A. Pink and powerful.

B. Green with a little shimmer.

C. Bright, bold, and a bit demanding.

D. Soft pink and sweet.

Results

Mostly A → Nanouk
Pink, bold, and a little bit of a drama queen. You love sun, strong colour, and you look amazing when conditions are just right

Mostly B → Violet Hill
Green with silver shimmer and very forgiving. You adapt easily and grow quickly, especially when given space to trail

Mostly C → Mexican Flag
Bright, variegated, and not afraid to demand perfect conditions. You need light, attention, and the right care to truly shine

Mostly D → Lisa
Pink, fast growing, and perfect for hanging pots. You are sweet and adaptable, even if you sometimes revert back to old habits

.So, what did you get? Did your result feel spot on, or completely wrong? Sometimes our plant personalities say more about us than we expect.

No matter which Tradescantia you matched with, there is no right or wrong answer. We all grow in different ways. For the record, I am a Lisa. Fast growing, a little chaotic, but generally easy to live with.

Now I really want to know. Which one are you?

Until next time!

Katja

Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

So today I am sharing seven pink Tradescantias that I truly love. Some have big leaves, some have smaller ones, and one does not even have the typical pink foliage but instead the prettiest pink flowers. All of them deserve a place in a pink plant lover’s collection.

1. Pink Furry

At first glance, Pink Furry looks a lot like Nanouk, but if you look closer, you will see the difference. One big difference is the soft, furry undersides of the leaves on Pink Furry. It also has a darker pink stripe running down the centre, which makes the colour stand out even more.

Pink Furry, just like Nanouk, belongs to the Cerinthoides group. They have larger, thicker leaves and sturdy stems that can store water quite well. Because of that, they can handle drying out better than many other Tradescantias. The stems grow upright at first, but once they get heavier, they naturally fall over and start trailing.

In lower light, the leaves can turn more pale and take on a soft pink, almost cream tone. Give it brighter light, and the pink becomes much deeper and more intense.

2. Fairy Wings

Fairy Wings is probably the smallest Tradescantias there is. It looks very similar to the more well known Lisa, also called Tricolor. But you can tell them apart by their variegation. Fairy Wings has what is called marginal variegation, while Lisa has sectoral variegation.

One big difference between these two types of variegation is stability. Plants with marginal variegation tend to revert much less often than those with sectoral variegation. That is one of the reasons I prefer Fairy Wings over Lisa.

The colour of the leaves is not a reliable way to tell them apart, since the colour can change a lot depending on light and growing conditions.

Fairy Wings belongs to the Mundula group. It is very similar to Fluminensis, but Mundulas have tiny hairs scattered across the leaves, while Fluminensis does not.

If you want to learn more about marginal and sectoral variegation, Tradescantia Hub has written a very good article explaining the differences. You can read it here.

3. HappiLee

Next is the sibling to the popular Quadricolor. It is also often called DannyLee, which can be a little confusing, but they are the same plant. HappiLee is a sport from Tradescantia Zebrina Minima, and if it reverts, it will revert back to Minima.

It is one of the three variegated Zebrinas, together with Quadricolor and Multicolor Discolor. The main difference between these three is the silver striping. Quadricolor has the widest silver stripes. HappiLee has a slightly zigzag pattern in its stripes. Multicolor Discolor has thinner stripes with a more broken appearance.

HappiLee grows a bit more slowly than the other two and generally has thinner, weaker stems. But it keeps its variegation well and has such a lovely pink colour that makes it completely worth it.

4. Maiden’s Blush

It is impossible to make a list of pink Tradescantias without Maiden’s Blush. It might just be one of the most interesting ones of all. What makes it so special is how it gets its pink colour. Most variegated plants change with light, but Maiden’s Blush reacts to cold or changes in temperature.

When the temperature shifts, the leaves start turning pink from the centre. If you struggle to get yours to blush, try placing it outdoors in summer. That always works with mine.

Many people confuse it with Blushing Bride, but they are not the same at all. Blushing Bride belongs to the Andersoniana group. It is a frost hardy Tradescantia with long, grasslike leaves. So if your plant has short, thicker leaves and turns pink, the correct name is Maiden’s Blush.

5. Pink Stripe

Pink Stripe is the variegated version of Purpurea. Since Purpurea is often called Purple Heart, Pink Stripe is also known as variegated Purple Heart. It has deep purple leaves with bright pink stripes.

It can revert quite easily, so you need to keep an eye on it and trim away any fully purple stems.

Pink Stripe belongs to the Pallida group, which is known for thick stems and fleshy leaves. They are very drought tolerant and you will often see them growing outdoors in full sun in warmer climates.

6. Unicorn

There are a few pink varieties in what’s called the Continental Group, but out of all of them, Unicorn is probably my favourite. It has a soft peachy pink colour that feels a little different from the brighter pink types.

Like many plants in the Continental Group, it has a compact growth habit and branches out a lot. It stays quite full without much effort. What makes it extra special, apart from the colour, is that some leaves occasionally develop an extra yellow stripe. Andersoniana

7. Andersoniana

The last one on this list is not just one variety. And unlike the others, it is not known for pink foliage. Instead, some Andersonianas have the prettiest pink flowers.

You may have come across the name Tradescantia Andersoniana before. These are not the typical tropical Tradescantias that we grow indoors for their colourful leaves. Andersonianas are grown mainly for their flowers and for being able to handle cold weather.

Instead of thick, colourful leaves, they have long, grass like foliage. The flowers still have three petals and, just like the tropical ones, each flower only lasts a day. They originate from North America but have become very popular in Europe as well.

Once they start flowering, they keep going all summer, then die back to the roots in winter and return again in spring.

It really is hard to choose just one favourite. Pink can look so different depending on the variety, the light, and even the season. That is part of what makes collecting them so fun.

If you are thinking about adding more pink to your home, you really cannot go wrong with any of these. Which one is your favourite? And which one did I miss on this list? I would love to know your thoughts.

Until next time!

Katja

Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

I have been there. There are times when my Tradescantia collection brings me so much joy, and other times when it feels like too much to keep up with. This newsletter is an honest look at how I cope when that happens, and the small changes that help me enjoy my plants again, without the pressure to do everything perfectly.

Tradescantia of the week: Fluminensis Variegata and Yellow Hill

Have you ever come across a yellow green Tradescantias called Yellow Hill or Variegata? They look so similar that it is easy to think they are the same plant. But they are actually two different cultivars.

Both have that beautiful yellow variegation that can range from just a little colour to almost covering the entire leaf. They grow in very similar ways and have leaves of roughly the same size, which makes them even harder to tell apart.

So how do you tell them apart?
The trick is to look closely at the stripes.

Variegata has sharper, more clearly defined stripes.
Yellow Hill has softer, more blurred striping.

You might hear that Yellow Hill is more yellow and Variegata more creamy, but that can change depending on light and growing conditions. Because of that, colour alone is not a reliable way to tell them apart.

Variegata has a long history and has been around for more than 150 years. Yellow Hill is younger, but still well established, and has been popular for around 20 years.

How I Simplify Plant Care When It Feels Like Too Much

There is no single right way to care for a large plant collection. What works during one season or phase of life might not work in another. Over time, I have had to adjust how I care for my Tradescantias, not to be perfect, but to make it sustainable. These are the small changes and mindset shifts that have helped me keep plant care enjoyable, even when the collection feels like a lot.

1. Use self watering pots

Self watering pots have been one of the biggest helpers in my collection. I often say that you need to be careful with self watering pots, but if you know how to use them properly, they can really extend the time between waterings. The key is to always let them dry out completely between refills.

Combining self watering pots with sphagnum moss has been an absolute lifesaver. With moss, I do not have to worry about overwatering, and I simply top them up when the water levels get too low

2. Simplify routines

The more plants you have, the easier it is to overcomplicate care. Different schedules, different rules, different exceptions. For me, simplifying routines has made a huge difference. One big reason this works for me is that almost all my plants are Tradescantias, which means they all have the same care needs.

I try to care for my Tradescantias in the same way whenever possible. The same types of pots, similar substrates, and a watering routine that works for most of them. I have let go of decorative pots, because they made watering more complicated. Instead, I use black plastic pots in trays, which makes it easier to see when I have watered enough. When it comes to self watering pots, I prefer clear bottoms so I can easily keep an eye on the water levels.

3. Accept that everything cannot be perfect

When you have many plants, something will always be a bit off. A leggy stem. A leaf with damage. A pot that really needs a repot, but not today. Accepting this has been an important mindset shift for me.

Not every Tradescantia will look its best all the time, and that is okay. A plant does not have to be perfect to be healthy, and it does not have to be perfect to be worth keeping. Letting go of perfection has helped me enjoy my collection for what it is, instead of constantly focusing on what needs fixing.

4. Rotate focus in the collection

I do not give all my Tradescantias the same level of attention all the time. Instead, I rotate my focus. For a while, a few plants get extra care, while the rest are allowed to just exist.

I have a little rehab corner, as I like to call it, where I place the plants that need the most attention at the moment. Once they start to look better, I move them back and bring in another one that needs a bit of extra care.

This takes away a lot of pressure. I no longer feel like every plant needs something from me all the time

5. One plant chore a day

When I try to do all my plant care at once, it quickly becomes overwhelming. Instead, I focus on doing one small plant chore a day. That might be repotting a single plant, watering, or chopping and propping.

These small tasks do not take much time, but they make a big difference over time. More importantly, they keep plant care from turning into a huge project. One small thing a day feels manageable, and keeps plant care from feeling overwhelming.

6. Accept seasonal chaos

There are times of the year when plant care naturally becomes harder. During winter, growth slows down, light levels drop, and Tradescantias often become pale, long, and leggy. Add busy periods of life on top of that, and things will slide a little.

Care becomes more basic, and some plants will not look their best. That does not mean you are doing something wrong. It simply means you are human, and plants have seasons too. Accepting this has helped me let go of a lot of unnecessary guilt

7. Let go of guilt plants

Some plants become a source of stress instead of joy. Every time you look at them, you feel behind, frustrated, or like you are failing. I have learned that it is okay to let those plants go. I used to feel a need to have every Tradescantia there is, but over time I have realised that some of them are simply not worth the effort for me.

If a plant stresses me out every time I see it, I allow myself to give it away or compost it. My collection is supposed to bring joy, not pressure. Letting go of guilt plants has made space, for the plants I truly enjoy caring for.

Having many plants does not mean you have to do everything perfectly. It is okay to adjust, simplify, and change the way you care for your collection as life shifts around you. Plant care should feel fun and relaxing, not draining.

Until next time, happy planting!

Katja

Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my codes, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

In this newsletter, I’m breaking down the most common reasons why Tradescantia propagations fail. Watering mistakes, low light, stressed plants, and even flowering stems can all play a role. If your cuttings keep struggling, this one’s for you.

Tradescantia of the week: TPIWH01-0

TPIWH01-0 belongs to the Continental group and is often sold under the name Pistachio White and is a white variegated Tradescantia. It was discovered in 2022 as a branch mutation from Albovittata.

At first glance, TPIWH01-0 and Albovittata can look almost identical. In similar growing conditions, small differences start to show. TPIWH01-0 tends to have slightly larger leaves and more white variegation, which gives it a brighter overall look.

There is also another close lookalike called Ivory Hill. The key difference is the colour of the variegation. Ivory Hill has a warmer tone that leans more toward light yellow, while TPIWH01-0 stays crisp and white.

This plant is quite common in the USA but has only recently started to spread in Europe. If you like variegated Tradescantias, TPIWH01-0 is definitely one to keep an eye on.

Reasons Your Tradescantia Propagations Aren’t Making It

Tradescantia cuttings are usually easy, until they are not. One day they root without any effort, and the next they slowly melt away even though you did everything the same. If your cuttings keep failing and you are not sure why, you are not alone. These are the most common reasons Tradescantia propagations do not make it, and small changes can make a big difference.

Watering mistakes

Watering is one of the most common reasons Tradescantia propagations fail. Too much water is usually the main problem. Cuttings don’t have roots yet, or only very small ones, which means they can’t handle excess moisture. When the medium stays wet for too long, the cutting is very likely to rot before roots have a chance to form.

This is especially common when cuttings are placed in soil that’s kept evenly moist “just to be safe.” In reality, that constant moisture does more harm than good. Tradescantias store water in their leaves and stems, so they can handle drying out much better than sitting in wet conditions.

The goal is to keep the medium lightly moist, not wet. It should never feel soggy. Water when you first place the cuttings in soil, then wait until the soil has dried out before watering again.

If you’re unsure whether to water or wait, it’s almost always better to wait. A slightly dry cutting can recover. A rotting one usually can’t

Low light

Light plays a huge role in successful propagation, and low light is a very common reason cuttings fail. Without enough light, the cutting simply doesn’t have the energy it needs to grow roots.

Light is what allows the plant to photosynthesize, the process where it uses light to turn water and carbon dioxide into energy. This energy is essential for growth. When a cutting doesn’t get enough light, it can’t produce enough energy to support root development, even if everything else is right. Tradescantias are very light-demanding plants.

Low light also affects watering. In darker conditions, the medium stays wet for much longer, which increases the risk of overwatering and rot. Even if your watering routine hasn’t changed, the environment around the cutting has.

For best results, place your cuttings in your brightest window. If you’re propagating during darker months, grow lights can make a big difference. Without enough light, propagation becomes much harder and far less predictable.

A stressed mother plant

One of the most overlooked reasons propagations fail is the condition of the plant you take cuttings from. A stressed plant will almost always produce weaker cuttings.

Stress can come from many things. A Tradescantia that has been kept in low light for a long time is already struggling. The same goes for a plant that has been under- or overwatered, hasn’t received enough fertilizer, or has been weakened by pests. Even if the plant still looks “okay,” it may be too weak to propagate successfully.

When you take cuttings from a stressed plant, you’re starting at a disadvantage. This increases the risk of rot or failure. In these cases, it’s often better to focus on improving the plant’s overall health first, more light, better watering, proper feeding, and pest control, before taking any cuttings.

Flowering stems

Flowering stems are a common reason Tradescantia cuttings fail, but they are not impossible to propagate. They are simply more difficult.

When a stem starts to flower, the plant directs much of its energy into producing blooms instead of roots. Propagation requires a lot of energy, and a flowering stem has less available for root development. This often results in cuttings that look fine at first but root very slowly, or not at all.

Sometimes a flowering cutting will continue to bloom in water or soil. This can be misleading. While the flowers look healthy, root growth is often stalled, and the cutting may eventually collapse or rot.

It is still possible to propagate flowering stems, especially if you remove the flowers and buds first. This helps redirect energy back toward root growth.

The good news is that each stem is its own individual plant. A flowering stem will not affect the stems around it. You can take cuttings from non flowering stems on the same plant, and they will root just fine, even while another stem is in bloom.

For the best results, choose stems that are not flowering. These are already focused on growth and are much more likely to root quickly and reliably.

Propagating at the wrong time

Timing plays a big role in successful propagation, and the wrong timing is a very common reason cuttings fail. Even though Tradescantias are fast growers, they still slow down when light levels drop.

Propagation depends on active growth. When days are short and light is weak, the plant produces less energy. This means cuttings have a harder time forming roots, even if your watering and setup are correct. They may just sit still, grow very slowly, or start to rot before roots can develop.

Dark periods also affect moisture. When growth slows, the medium dries more slowly. This increases the risk of overwatering, even if you have not changed how often you water. What worked well in spring or summer may suddenly become too much.

Winter is the most challenging time to propagate, especially in darker climates. A window that works well in summer often does not provide enough light in winter, even if it looks bright to us.

For best results, propagate when your plant is actively growing, usually in spring and summer. If you want to propagate during darker months, grow lights can make a big difference. Without enough light and active growth, propagation becomes slower, harder, and far less predictable.

Bonus Tip: Your propagation medium matters

The medium you choose for propagation affects how you care for the cutting. Soil and water both work well for Tradescantias, but they require different approaches.

Water propagation is simple and easy to monitor, but it can also be unpredictable. Cuttings often look fine in water, then struggle when moved to soil.

Soil is more stable long term, but it requires careful watering. If the soil stays too wet, especially in low light, cuttings can rot before roots have time to form.

Sphagnum moss holds moisture while still allowing plenty of air around the stem. This creates a gentle and forgiving environment for root growth. Because of this, sphagnum is my favourite method for very weak or delicate cuttings. It keeps them hydrated without suffocating them, giving them the best chance to recover and root.

If your cuttings keep failing, changing the medium can sometimes make all the difference.

If you are looking for high quality options, take a look at SYBotanica soil mixes or sphagnum moss, both work very well for propagation (affiliate links). Use code KATJA10 for 10% off).

Propagation does not always fail because you are doing something wrong. Small details like light, timing, and the right medium make a huge difference. With a few adjustments and a bit of patience, most Tradescantia cuttings will find their way. And when they do, it is always worth the wait.

Until next time, happy planting!

Katja

Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my codes, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

It’s been a while! Life has gotten in the way lately, but now it’s finally time to get back to writing newsletters again. How are your Tradescantias doing?

Mine, to be honest, haven’t been at their best. With too many plants and too little time, I haven’t been able to give them the attention they deserve. One thing that has truly saved me, though, is self-watering pots! They’ve helped me stretch the time between waterings, which has been a lifesaver.

But self-watering pots can also cause trouble if you don’t know how to use them the right way. So in this newsletter, I’ll go through when and how to use self-watering pots for your Tradescantias, and what to watch out for!

Tradescantia of the Week: Spathacea Cream

Tradescantia Spathacea Cream has only been around for a few years. It begins as a compact, upright rosette with long, narrow leaves, but as it matures, the stems start to trail beautifully over the edges of the pot.

What makes it stand out is its soft cream variegation. It’s still quite rare and mostly found in private collections, so it’s not a plant you’ll find in a plant shop.

I’ve never seen or heard of a Cream actually blooming, and mine certainly isn’t in a hurry either!

Cream is one of seven known Spathacea varieties.

You might also see Spathaceas listed under older botanical names, Tradescantia discolor, Rhoeo spathacea, or Rhoeo discolor, but they all refer to the same species.

Self-Watering Pots: Help or Trouble for Your Tradescantias?

They’ve become really popular, and for good reason. Self-watering pots can help extend the time between waterings while keeping your plants happy, but they’re not the perfect solution for every plant or situation.

They work best for Tradescantias with large, well-established root systems that fill most of the pot, then they’ll use up the water before it becomes a problem. Ideally, your plant should empty the reservoir within two weeks. After that, let the soil dry out completely before refilling. If the soil stays constantly wet, root rot is just a matter of time.

That said, self-watering pots aren’t ideal for every Tradescantia. They’re usually not the best option for small plants or cuttings. The roots are simply too small to take up water fast enough, and the constant moisture can easily lead to rot.

For cuttings and younger plants, I still prefer regular pots. That way, the soil dries out faster. Tradescantias are somewhat succulent by nature, they store water in their leaves and stems, so they actually do better when they dry out between waterings. I know many people say to water again when only the top inch of soil is dry, but that’s one of the most common reasons people end up with root rot.

And as for the idea that letting them dry out causes brown leaf tips, I don’t believe that’s true at all. I always let my Tradescantias dry out completely between waterings, and I rarely have any problems with brown tips.

Whether you use self-watering pots or not, the key is to let the soil dry out before watering again, and your plants will thank you for it.

How to Use Self-Watering Pots for Tradescantias

1. Choose the right plant.

Self-watering pots work best for well-established Tradescantias with large root systems. Avoid using them for cuttings or very small plants.

2. Use well-draining soil.

Tradescantias don’t like sitting in wet soil. Use a well-draining premade soil mix or mix in perlite or pumice for better airflow and healthier roots.

3. Place the pot in bright light.

Good light helps your Tradescantia stay healthy and use the water faster. In low light, the soil stays wet longer, increasing the risk of rot.

4. Fill the reservoir — but not too often.

Ideally, your plant should use up the water within two weeks. After that, let the pot dry out completely before refilling.

5. Watch your plant’s signals.

If the leaves or stems turn yellow or mushy, it’s too wet. If they start to look soft or dull, it’s time to refill the reservoir.

Sphagnum Moss

One trick I’ve really come to like is combining self-watering pots with sphagnum moss. The moss keeps the roots evenly moist while also providing aeration, which helps prevent rot. This setup works really well for both small plants and larger ones. Just make sure not to pack the moss too tightly, it needs airflow to work properly.

And the best part? You don’t have to worry about the moss drying out, it can stay moist without any problems for the plant.

Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my codes, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

It can feel a little overwhelming to know exactly what to do, but don’t worry, I’ve put together my best tips to make the transition as smooth as possible. With a little preparation now, your Tradescantias will be ready to stay healthy through the colder months.

Tradescantia of the Week: Zebrina Quadricolor

This beauty has gone by many names over the years, Multicolor, Zebrina Tricolor, even Multicolor Mme Lequesne. To make things even trickier, the cultivar Mundula Lisa is sometimes incorrectly called Quadricolor too. Quadricolor is believed to be a sport of an unknown Zebrina (most likely Superba) and was first documented back in 1879 in France.

It’s one of the four variegated Zebrinas, with broad silvery bands and pink variegation.

There are four known variegated cultivars in the Zebrina species, and at first glance they can be difficult to tell apart. The exception is Pink Paradise, with its striking magenta leaves. For the others, details in the silver stripes give the best clues. Quadricolor has the widest stripes, which cover about half of the leaf and appear solid. HappiLee has slightly narrower stripes with a zigzag pattern. And Discolor Multicolor has the thinnest stripes, with a broken look.

In my experience, Quadricolor is also a bit more demanding than many other Tradescantias. It reverts easily and requires close attention to maintain its colourful variegation. But when it looks good, it’s absolutely stunning.

Getting Tradescantias Ready for Winter

As the days get shorter and the temperatures drop, our Tradescantias need a little extra care. Here’s what to think about when bringing them inside and adjusting their care for the colder months.

Bringing Them Inside

The very first step in preparing your Tradescantias for winter is deciding which ones need to come back indoors. Most tropical varieties do just fine as long as temperatures stay above 10°C (50°F). Below that, they can survive for a while, but they’ll start to suffer, growth slows down drastically, and the plants may develop damage that takes time to recover from.

They cannot handle freezing temperatures. Some varieties might cope with a short dip below 0°C (32°F), but others, like Zebrinas, will not survive at all. If you want to keep your Tradescantias looking their best, I recommend moving them inside before night temperatures drop below 10°C.

The frost-hardy Andersonianas are a different story. They can take frost and often manage through the whole winter outdoors. Even so, extremely cold or prolonged freezing can cause damage, but usually they bounce back once spring arrives. By the time the warmer weather returns, they often send up fresh new growth from the ground.

Pests

Before you bring any plants inside, it’s important to give them a careful check for pests. Look closely at the undersides of the leaves and along the stems, since thrips, spider mites, and mealybugs love to hide there. If you spot anything suspicious, treat it right away, it’s much easier to handle pests before they spread indoors.

I like to quarantine any plants I’ve had outside, just to be safe. Even healthy-looking plants can carry hidden hitchhikers, and once they’re in your home it can be very difficult to get rid of them. A little extra time now can save a lot of frustration later.

Adjusting Care Indoors

Fall and winter can be a tricky time for Tradescantias. With shorter days, less light, and cooler indoor temperatures, growth slows down a lot and that means the way you care for them also needs to change.

Watering​
In fall and winter, watering can feel unpredictable. Since growth slows and the air is cooler, your plants generally need less water. But at the same time, heating systems can dry out the air, which sometimes makes them dry out faster, especially if they’re sitting above a radiator. The best approach is to always check the soil before watering, instead of sticking to a schedule. And don’t worry too much about humidity, Tradescantias usually handle normal indoor air just fine.

Light​
Light is often the biggest challenge during winter, and most problems I see with Tradescantias at this time of year can be traced back to not enough light. A weak plant is more sensitive to overwatering, pests, and disease. The best thing you can do is place them in your brightest window, and if that’s not enough, grow lights are a great option. Poor light also makes propagation harder, so unless you have grow lights to support them, I recommend holding off on trimming and propagating until spring.

Fertilizing​
Because Tradescantias grow more slowly in winter, they don’t need much food. This is the time to pause fertilizing. Adding nutrients when the plant isn’t actively using them can build up in the soil and do more harm than good.

Pest monitoring​
Weaker plants are easier targets for pests. Thrips and spider mites in particular can show up indoors during winter. Regularly check both sides of the leaves so you can catch problems early, before they spread.

Winter Storage

Last year I experimented with keeping some of my Tradescantias in the storage room over winter. I potted up a few cuttings and placed them near a window where it gets cold during winter but never freezing. I watered them once in October and then left them completely dry until spring.

By April, a few of them started to look dehydrated, so I gave them water again, and in May, when the risk of frost was finally over, I planted them back outside. Most of them survived the winter just fine. A few didn’t make it, but I believe that was because they hadn’t developed enough roots before the cold set in, since I had only just taken the cuttings in October.

This year, I’m starting a little earlier. I’m taking cuttings from my outdoor plants now, so they’ll have more time to grow stronger roots before winter arrives. My plan is the same: water them for the last time in late October, then let them rest all winter until spring brings them back to life.

Wrapping it Up

Winter doesn’t have to be a difficult season for Tradescantias. With a little planning, bringing them inside before the nights get too cold and adjusting your care to match the lower light, you can help your plants make it through the darker months.

By spring, they’ll be ready to grow back stronger and fuller than ever. Until then, think of winter as a time for both you and your Tradescantias to rest a little.

I hope these tips make you feel more confident about preparing your plants for the colder months.

Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my codes, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

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They might be a little limp, a bit yellow, or just generally tired. Don’t worry, that doesn’t mean they won’t recover. With the right care, most cuttings bounce back quickly and grow into strong, healthy plants.

In this newsletter, I’ll share my best tips for what to do when your new Tradescantia cuttings arrive, so you’ll know exactly how to help them settle in and thrive.

Tradescantia of the week: Sillamontana Gold Stripes

This week’s plant is Sillamontana Gold Stripes. The Sillamontanas are probably the most drought-tolerant of all Tradescantias.

The non-variegated Sillamontana is native to northeastern Mexico, where it has adapted to dry seasons by developing some clever survival strategies. The thick layer of white hairs covering the leaves and stems not only gives it a fuzzy look, but also protects the plant from harsh sunlight and helps it hold on to water. Its fleshy leaves and stems act as little reservoirs, storing water for when times get tough.

In my experience, it’s a fairly easy plant to care for. It loves bright light and really benefits from being placed in a sunny spot. Without enough light it tends to stretch out and lose that nice compact look. A well-draining soil mix is a must, and when it comes to watering, less is more. Being semi-succulent, it’s much better to underwater than to overwater, since too much moisture is the one thing it doesn’t tolerate well.

Caring for Newly Arrived Cuttings

So, let’s dive into the main topic of this newsletter. What should you actually do when your Tradescantia cuttings finally arrive? Here’s my guide to help them recover from shipping and settle in happily.

Unboxing and First Check

The first thing to do when your cuttings arrive is simply to open the package carefully and see what you’re working with. After a week or more in a box, it’s normal for them to look a little sad, but don’t panic if the leaves and stems are limp, yellowing, or even a bit mushy. That doesn’t mean the cutting is lost.

Gently remove any packaging material like paper, moss, or plastic. If some leaves are damaged or melted, trim them off so the plant doesn’t waste energy on them. At the same time, you’ll want to keep the healthy leaves. Those leaves can help the cutting by absorbing light and producing energy while the roots are developing.

Make sure to also check the stems. Any soft, mushy sections should be trimmed away, since they’ve already started to rot and can spread damage further up the cutting if left in place.

What matters the most is that there’s at least one healthy node left, that’s all you need to grow a whole new plant. Of course, you’ll want to keep as much of the cutting as possible, but the priority is always to remove anything that could cause further damage.

Rooting – Water, Soil, or Sphagnum?

When it’s time to root your new cuttings, you can choose between three main methods, water, soil, or sphagnum moss. All of them can work well, but the condition of the cutting often decides which option is best.

If the cutting looks healthy and hasn’t been affected much by shipping, it doesn’t really matter which method you use. In that case, all three options work fine. Personally, I often go straight to soil with cuttings that arrive in good shape, since it saves a step later on.

If the cutting looks healthy but you don’t have much time to deal with it right away, water is the easiest choice. It’s quick, you can see the roots forming, and you don’t need to do much more than change the water every few days.

If the cutting is very stressed, limp, or partly damaged, then sphagnum moss is my go-to. It provides constant humidity while still letting the cutting breathe, which helps it recover faster. Water can also work here, but I recommend avoiding soil in this situation, because it’s trickier to manage when the cutting is already weak.

Water rooting​
Place the cuttings in a clean glass of water, making sure at least one node is submerged. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh and prevent bacteria. Within a week or two, you’ll usually see roots start to form. Once the roots are a few centimeters long, you can either leave them in water for longer or pot them up in soil.

Soil rooting​
Fill a small pot with well-draining soil and place the cutting so that at least one node is under the soil, then gently press the soil around it. Water lightly so the soil is moist but not soggy. You won’t see the roots, but you can gently pull on the cutting, if you feel resistance, roots have started to form. It’s normal for leaves to go limp at first, but as long as the cutting looks generally healthy, give it time. Once it has adjusted, the leaves should perk up again.

Sphagnum moss rooting​
Moisten the sphagnum moss so it’s damp but not wet. Place the cutting into the moss, making sure a node is in contact with the damp fibers. I recommend using a small pot or jar without drainage holes so the moss doesn’t dry out too quickly. I avoid closed containers, since there’s too much risk of rot if the environment stays too humid. Check the moss every few days, if it feels dry, mist it lightly. Once roots are visible and strong, you can plant the cutting into soil.

No matter which method you pick, place the cuttings in bright light. Good light will give the plant energy to recover and produce new growth, and with a bit of patience, they’ll soon start putting out new roots.

Common Problems With Cuttings

Even with the best care, cuttings can show signs of stress after shipping and while rooting. Here are a few common issues and what they usually mean:

Browning leaves​
It’s normal for some older leaves to turn brown and drop off. The cutting is focusing its energy on survival and new growth. Just remove the leaves and don’t worry too much, what matters is that the stem and nodes are healthy.

Yellowing leaves​
If several leaves start to turn yellow, it can be an early sign of overwatering. Soil or moss that stays too wet for too long can lead to rot. Make sure the medium is only lightly moist and never soggy.

Soft stems​
If parts of the stem turn soft and mushy, it usually means rot has started. Cut back to healthy tissue and restart the cutting from a firm section. Leaving rot can spread and kill the whole cutting.

Limp leaves​
It’s very common for leaves to go limp at first, especially if the cutting has been in a box for a long time. It’s often just a sign of dehydration. As long as the stem is healthy, the leaves usually perk up again once roots begin to form.

Pests​
It’s always important to keep an eye out for pests and preferably quarantine all your new cuttings. Even if it’s a trusted seller, it can happen that some uninvited guests have found their way onto your cuttings. Always check carefully before placing them with other plants.

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Wrapping it up

Getting Tradescantia cuttings in the mail is always a little adventure. They might not look perfect after a long trip, but with the right care most of them bounce back quickly.

I hope these tips help you feel more confident in handling newly arrived cuttings.

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my codes, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

Have you heard that you should water when the top inch of soil is dry? That you must never get the leaves wet? Or that Tradescantias can’t handle direct sun? Maybe even that fertilizer isn’t necessary, or that you can identify them just by looking at a picture chart?

These pieces of advice are repeated so often that they sound true, but following them can leave your plant weak, leggy, or even on the way to root rot. In this issue, I’ll break down why these “tips” don’t hold up, and what you should do instead to keep your Tradescantias healthy and happy.

Tradescantia of the week: EC-TRAD-2303 (Brightness)

Today I want to highlight Tradescantia EC-TRAD-2303 though you might know it better by the name Brightness! This cultivar was patented just last year and now officially goes by the name EC-TRAD-2303. It has only been around for a few years but has already become quite popular.

It was first discovered in the Netherlands as a mutated branch from what was said to be a Tradescantia Cerinthoides. But that’s a bit uncertain, since EC-TRAD-2303 doesn’t really share the same look or traits as Cerinthoides. Instead, it has been placed in the Continental Group, a collection of cultivars that are mostly believed to be hybrids. Many of them look very similar, which can make them tricky to tell apart. One example is White Giant, another white-variegated Tradescantia in the Continental Group, which is thought to look almost identical to EC-TRAD-2303.

EC-TRAD-2303 has quickly become popular, and it’s easy to see why. The white variegation is striking, and with enough light you may even notice soft hints of pink in the leaves. It’s also said to flower frequently, even when grown indoors… although mine hasn’t bloomed yet. I’m still waiting!

Five Tradescantia Tips You Should Ignore

When it comes to Tradescantias, there’s no shortage of plant care advice out there. The problem is, not all of it is good advice and some of it can actually do more harm than good. Here are five common tips you’ve probably heard, and why you should think twice before following them.

1. Water when the top inch of soil is dry

This advice often leads to overwatering. Since Tradescantias can store water in their stems and leaves, they’re actually quite good at handling drying out. Watering too often creates real problems for the roots.

When soil stays constantly wet, the air pockets in it get filled with water and the roots can’t absorb the oxygen they need to function. The longer this goes on, the more damage it causes. The roots quite literally suffocate. Without oxygen, they begin to rot, and once root rot sets in, the plant can no longer take up water and nutrients effectively. That’s when you start seeing yellowing leaves, slowed growth, and eventually parts of the plant dying back.

It’s much better to let Tradescantias dry out completely before watering again. Their roots will stay stronger, healthier, and more resilient. I often use a moisture meter to check if the soil has fully dried out. It’s not 100% exact, but it gives a good enough indication of whether the soil is still damp or ready for watering.

2. Never get the leaves wet

In reality, Tradescantias don’t mind water on their leaves at all. Outdoors they get rained on regularly and they’re just fine, so water on the leaves is not automatically a problem.

Still, this is one of those “go-to” explanations people often give whenever a Tradescantia shows brown spots, yellowing, or any other issue. It’s easy to blame water on the leaves, but in my experience, that’s rarely the real cause. More often, it comes down to things like inconsistent watering, poor soil drainage, pests, or simply not enough light.

I’ve never seen water on the leaves alone cause brown marks or damage. In fact, I did an experiment with my Nanouk where I sprayed the leaves every day for ten days just to test this. The result? No spots, no damage, just a healthy plant.

(You can even watch the video here!)

3. Don’t put your Tradescantia in direct sunlight

This one keeps coming up, but it’s very misleading and it often leads people to place their Tradescantias in far too little light. While it’s true that strong, sudden sun can burn the leaves, most Tradescantias actually do much better with a few hours of direct sunlight every day.

When they don’t get enough light, the results are easy to spot: they lose their colour, get leggy, and look weak. Instead of avoiding sunlight altogether, the key is to let your plant adjust gradually. If it has been in a darker corner, move it step by step into a brighter spot, and over time it will adapt.

Once used to stronger light, Tradescantias reward you with their best traits, vibrant colours, stronger stems, and compact, bushy growth.

4. Fertilizer isn’t necessary

It’s true that Tradescantias can survive for quite a while without fertilizer, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need food.

Regular fertilizing, especially during summer, makes a huge difference. Without it, growth slows down, new leaves come in much smaller, and you might even see yellowing or wrinkled leaves as the plant struggles to support itself.

The good news is, they don’t need much to stay happy. A balanced houseplant fertilizer, diluted to half strength and given about once every 4 weeks, is usually enough.

5. You can identify a Tradescantia just by looking at a picture chart

Many Tradescantias look almost identical at first glance, and their appearance can change a lot depending on light, water, and care. Charts are fun to look at, but they often oversimplify things. Proper identification usually requires knowing what to look for when it comes to details like leaf shape, type of variegation, colours, or even flowers, and even then, it can be tricky!

If you’d like to read more on how to identify Tradescantias, I’ve written an article that goes into more detail. You can read it here.

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: These are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my codes, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

When Tradescantias don’t get enough light, their colours fade, their growth becomes long and leggy, and they can even become more vulnerable to pests and disease. Over time, they lose that vibrant, compact look that makes them so beautiful.

The good news? With the right placement and a few easy tricks, you can give your Tradescantias all the light they need to thrive, whether they’re indoors, outdoors, or under grow lights. In this issue, I’ll show you exactly how to do it.

Tradescantia of the week: Spathacea Vittata

The yellow-striped Vittata is actually the oldest variegated Tradescantia cultivar, with a history going all the way back to the 19th century. While it’s not as common today as it once was, it still has a favourite among plant lovers, and it’s easy to see why.

Vittata belongs to the Spathacea species, which grows quite differently from most other Tradescantias. Instead of trailing, it forms large, upright, compact rosettes.

The Spathacea species are known by many names, including Boat Lily, Moses-in-the-cradle, Oyster Plant, and Rhoeo. Vittata is sometimes referred to as Variegated Boat Lily.

The leaves on Vittata are dark green with yellow stripes running down the center, and the undersides are a deep, rich purple. Compared to the more common Spathacea Sitara (often called Spathacea Tricolor), Vittata has much larger leaves, sometimes reaching up to 30 cm long!

And then there are the flowers. Vittata blooms in a way that’s quite different from other Tradescantias. The flowers emerge from small “pockets” along the sides between the leaves.

My Vittata started blooming in September and kept going all the way until April when I got tired of them and cut off all the pockets. There were just so many flowers! Some days I’d get one, other days two, and by the end, there had been well over 200 flowers.

Bright indirect light – what does that really mean?

Have you noticed that almost every care guide says Tradescantias need “bright indirect light”? It sounds helpful, but is it really? What does that even mean?

This advice often makes people worry about giving their plants too much sun, when in reality most Tradescantias can handle far more light than you might think. In fact, good light is the most important factor for colour and healthy growth.

Why light matters so much

While Tradescantias can survive in lower light, the amount and type of light they get will affect their colours, growth, and overall health. Too little light often leads to pale leaves, and leggy growth with long spaces between the leaves. A plant that isn’t getting enough light may also stop growing and can become more vulnerable to pests, diseases, and even root rot.

Different species, different needs

Some Tradescantias really love the sun. Pallida and Sillamontana both need a lot of light to grow well and will quickly start to struggle without it. This is especially noticeable on the purple Pallidas, which lose their purple colour and turn green when the light is too low. Others, like Fluminensis and Zebrina, are more forgiving and can manage better in slightly lower light conditions.

Where to place your Tradescantia

Indoors, the best spot for a Tradescantia is usually the brightest window you have. It’s actually quite hard to give them too much light inside, so a south-facing window is perfect. But even a west-facing or east-facing window can work well.

Outdoors it’s a different story. The sun is much stronger, and a few hours of direct sunlight is usually enough. Too much intense sun can burn the leaves, especially in the middle of the day. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade often works best.

If you’re unsure, start with a brighter location and watch how the plant responds. Strong colours and compact growth are good signs that it’s getting the light it needs.

How to avoid sunburn

If your Tradescantia has been growing in low light and you want to move it to a brighter spot, be careful not to do it too quickly. Too much strong sunlight all at once can burn the leaves, especially on variegated varieties.

Start by moving it to a brighter spot for just an hour or two each day, then gradually increase the time in stronger light. This gives the plant a chance to adapt without burning.

What if your home doesn’t get enough light?

Grow lights can be a real game changer if you live in a darker home or during the winter months when daylight is limited. A grow light can make a huge difference and keep your plants healthy all year round.

One important thing to remember is placement. If the light is too far away from the plant, it won’t actually help much. Most grow lights need to be fairly close, around 20–40 cm (8–16”) above the plant to be effective. It also helps to place the lamp straight above the plant so the light reaches all parts of it evenly, which encourages compact growth.

Tradescantias do best with around 12 to 16 hours of light per day if they don’t get much natural sunlight. A simple timer can make this much easier, especially in winter when the days are short.

Choosing the right light can feel confusing with so many options, red, blue, white, or full spectrum. Full spectrum is the easiest choice, as it mimics natural daylight and works well for all plants.

I’m not an expert on the technical side of it, so I can’t give a detailed recommendation. What I can say is that I’ve been using SANSI grow lights myself, and I’ve been really happy with them. They’re easy to use, and they’ve made a huge difference for my Tradescantias when natural light just isn’t enough.

And if you want to try SANSI grow lights yourself, you can get a discount with the code katja32.

Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

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It’s easy to think that way, especially when the same varieties keep showing up in shops and online. But the truth is, new cultivars are being registered all the time. Some are spontaneous garden finds, others are carefully bred hybrids, and many of them fly completely under the radar.

In this week’s newsletter, I’ll introduce a few newly registered Tradescantias you might not have heard of yet, but that I’d love to see pop up in collections soon.

And of course, we also have a cute, fuzzy and variegated Tradescantia of the Week!

Tradescantia of the week: Variegated Chrysophylla

This week’s plant is a fuzzy one, Variegated Chrysophylla! It’s also sometimes called Variegated Baby Bunny Bellies, and if you’ve ever seen it up close, you know why. This one is still quite rare and hasn’t been officially named yet. It’s a natural mutation of the original Baby Bunny Bellies, and it’s just as soft and lovely.

Like the original, it has soft, velvety leaves and fuzzy stems that are incredibly soft to touch. But what makes this one stand out is the yellow variegation. The contrast between the green and yellow, along with the fuzzy texture, gives it a really unique look.

I haven’t seen mine bloom yet, but it’s said to produce tiny white flowers, just like the non-variegated version. Fingers crossed I’ll get to see them one day!

This one’s still pretty hard to find, but if you come across it, I highly recommend grabbing it. It’s a beautiful plant.

Tradescantia Cultivars

If you’ve ever gone down the Tradescantia rabbit hole, you know there are a lot of them out there. But did you know there are well over 100 different Tradescantias? According to TradescantiaHub, there were 144 known cultivars in existence as of 2023. (There have been many more over the years, but some have sadly been lost in cultivation.) And that number is always changing as new cultivars are introduced and documented.

About half of them are tropical varieties, the ones we love to grow indoors as houseplants. The other half are frost-hardy types that we grow in gardens even in colder climates.

What’s a cultivar, anyway?​
A cultivar is a plant that’s been selected or bred for specific traits, like unique leaf colours, shapes, or growth habits. Unlike wild plants that grow from seed and can vary a lot, cultivars are kept true-to-type by taking cuttings or using tissue culture, so those special features stay consistent.

So when a new Tradescantia cultivar gets registered, it means someone has officially named and documented a plant with distinct, stable traits.

Newly Registered Tradescantia Cultivars​
I always get excited when new Tradescantia cultivars are officially registered, and recently, a few interesting ones have been added! I don’t have any of them in my collection (yet!), but I thought it would be fun to share them with you. Who knows, maybe one day we’ll get lucky and find them available somewhere!

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Tradescantia fluminensis ‘Austroverde’

Let’s start with Austroverde, a cultivar that’s been in circulation in Chile for a few years but has only recently been officially registered. It was named and registered by Iván Calfu in Panguipulli, Chile in 2025.

The name comes from Spanish: “austro” refers to the humid southern region of Chile, and “verde” points to the plant’s intense green color.

Although it’s been around locally since at least 2020, it hadn’t been formally recognized as a distinct cultivar until now. And while it may look similar to Tradescantia fluminensis ‘Viridis’, Austroverde has very different care needs.

It thrives in constant humidity and doesn’t do well in open air unless extra humidity is provided. In drier conditions, the leaves quickly turn yellow and die off. Flowers are rare or completely absent in cultivation, so this one is all about the foliage.

Right now, it’s only locally available in Chile, but it’s always exciting to see more regional cultivars being officially named.

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Tradescantia pallida ‘Marley’

Next up is Tradescantia pallida ‘Marley’, a new cultivar with a colourful backstory. It was named 2025, named by Misty Diaz in Katy, Texas, and collected and registered by Samantha McMahon in Windsor Heights, Iowa.

The plant itself is believed to be a spontaneous mutation, discovered in the rainforest of Puerto Rico around 2023.

Marley is still very new on the market, but it’s already starting to spread. It’s recently been introduced in the US and, as far as I know, has also made its way to the UK, which is exciting!

The foliage is what makes this plant stand out. The leaves are shaped like those of Pallida ‘Purpurea’, but instead of deep purple, they’re green with pink edges and lime-green variegation. It’s a greener version of the more well-known ‘Pink Stripe’.

I’d love to see this one in person someday. Hopefully it becomes more widely available soon!

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Tradescantia buckleyi × pallida ‘BreeZerker’

Last but definitely not least, Tradescantia ‘BreeZerker’. This one is especially exciting, because it’s the first documented hybrid between Tradescantia buckleyi and Tradescantia pallida. It was bred, named, registered, and introduced by Bree Harrison in Austin, Texas, in 2025. The name ‘BreeZerker’ is Bree’s roller derby name!

The plant was grown from seed in 2024, with Tradescantia pallida ‘Ocampo White’ as the seed parent and a suspected Tradescantia buckleyi as the pollen parent.

Its overall growth habit closely resembles the buckleyi parent. But the leaves are hairy, and the flowers differ with it’s light purple colour.

It’s newly introduced in the US and still very rare, but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye out for this one!

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

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Summer is the season when Tradescantias really take off. With longer days, more light, and warmer temperatures, they grow faster than ever and before you know it, that little plant from spring might be overflowing its pot.

But how do you actually know when it’s time to repot? Just because your plant is growing fast doesn’t always mean it needs a bigger pot.

In this newsletter, I’ll go through the signs to look for, and a few tips I’ve learned from repotting plenty of my own Tradescantias over the years.

Tradescantia of the week: Zebrina Evanesce

This is probably my favorite of all the Zebrinas. It’s absolutely stunning with its silvery bands and those striking purple stripes.

One thing I really like about Evanesce is its growth habit. It has slightly thicker stems and a more upright shape compared to many other Zebrinas, which makes it feel sturdier and easier to manage.

Even though it’s a relatively new variety, Evanesce has already become quite popular and it’s easy to see why. Like most Zebrinas, it’s fast-growing and super easy to care for. The only real challenge I’ve had is finding the right amount of light to keep those purple stripes vibrant. Without enough light, the purple can fade. I’ve found that a bright windowsill works really well.

If you come across Evanesce, I highly recommend giving it a try. It’s a real showstopper!

When is the right time to repot?

Summer is here, and my Tradescantias are growing like crazy! With all that new growth, it’s the perfect time to check if any of your plants are ready for a new pot.

How to Know When It’s Time to Repot

So how do you actually know it’s time?

For me, the biggest sign is simple: I can’t keep up with the watering. If the soil dries out super quickly and I feel like I’m watering every other day, that usually means the plant has outgrown the pot and the roots are filling it up.

A good rule of thumb is this: if the soil dries out in less than a week, the pot is probably too small. If it takes more than two weeks to dry out, the pot might be too big.

Another reason I often repot is when there’s no room left for new propagations. If I’ve been “chopping and propping” and the pot is getting crowded with rooted cuttings, it’s time to move everything to a bigger home.

Some people say it’s time to repot when roots start growing out through the drainage holes. That can be a sign, but not always. Roots naturally grow toward moisture, so if you use a nursery pot inside a cover pot and there’s moisture collecting at the bottom, the roots might just be heading that way, not necessarily because the plant is root-bound.

If it’s been more than a year since you last repotted, it might be time. But not always. As long as you’re fertilizing regularly and the plant is growing well, it can often stay in the same pot for quite a while. That said, after a year or more, most Tradescantias have usually grown so much that a fresh start is a good idea. I often take that chance to cut the plant back completely and restart with fresh soil and new cuttings.

Choosing the Right Pot Size

When it’s time to repot, it can be tempting to go big, but Tradescantias don’t actually like swimming in soil. A pot that’s too large holds on to moisture for too long, which can lead to root rot, especially if the plant doesn’t have the root system to use up all that water.

A good rule is to only go up one size. If your plant is in an 11 cm (4”) pot, move it to a 13 cm (5”). If it’s in a 13 cm (5”) pot, try a 15 cm (6”). Just a couple of centimeters (around an inch) extra is usually enough to give the roots more space without overwhelming them.

If you’re repotting because the plant is full of cuttings or you want to add more, you can go slightly bigger to make room, but still avoid going too far. It’s better to repot again in later than to risk problems with overwatering now.

I hope this helps you feel more confident in knowing when it’s time to repot. It doesn’t have to be a big project, just a little extra care that can make a big difference for your plant.

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

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I’m counting down the days to my vacation! I’m really looking forward to having more time to spend with my family and plants.

My Tradescantias are growing like crazy right now, and maybe yours are too! But with all that growth comes a few challenges, like keeping up with watering and making sure they don’t completely take over the house.

So I thought I’d share some of my best summer care tips to help you keep your Tradescantias happy and healthy during the warmer months.

Tradescantia of the week: Sillamontana Hogan’s Hero

This week’s Tradescantia is Sillamontana Hogan’s Hero.

It was found by Sean Hogan and first introduced by Cistus Nursery. He discovered it growing about 80 miles northwest of Sierra La Peña in Coahuila, Mexico, at an elevation of 6,500 feet (roughly 2,000 meters).

What sets Hogan’s Hero apart from more common forms of Tradescantia sillamontana is the foliage. The leaves are smaller and more pointed, but still covered in that thick layer of soft, white hairs that give the plant its fuzzy appearance. The stems and leaves are fleshy and green, which allows them to store water, making the plant quite drought tolerant.

It blooms with small, light purple flowers that I personally think are some of the cutest Tradescantia flowers I’ve seen.

Another interesting detail is its supposed frost hardiness. While I haven’t tested this myself (yet!), it’s said to handle temperatures as low as -10°C (14°F) without any problems.

Hogan’s Hero seems to be very rare in Europe, I’ve never seen it for sale anywhere here. As far as I can tell, it’s only available at a few places in the US. I was lucky enough to get mine sent from a friend over there, and I’m so happy to have it in my collection. I’ll definitely be testing its frost hardiness this winter!

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Summer Care Tips

Summer is here, and your Tradescantias are feeling it! With more sun, warmth, and longer days, they’re ready to grow like crazy. But this season also brings new challenges. To help your plants stay happy, healthy, and thriving all summer long, here are my best care tips:

Light​
Tradescantias love bright light, and most of them can handle more sun than you might think. Make sure to take advantage of the summer sun, it can do wonders for their growth and colour. But if your plant has been in a darker spot, don’t move it straight into full sun. Sudden changes can cause sunburn, especially on variegated types. Start by placing it closer to a bright window or outdoors in the shade, and then slowly increase the light over a week or two. That way you avoid crispy edges and sad leaves, and the plant gets time to adjust.

Once it’s used to the stronger light, it will reward you with its brightest and most beautiful colours.

Watering​
More sun and warmer temperatures mean your Tradescantias will dry out faster, especially if they’re sitting in a sunny window, near a fan or AC, or living outside. So, you’ll probably need to water more often. But always check the soil first and let it dry out before you water again.

More light makes Tradescantias stronger and more resilient, but their roots still hate being soggy. If you’re unsure, it’s better to wait another day and check again than to risk overwatering.

If you keep your Tradescantia outside, overwatering is less of a risk. Rainy days usually aren’t a problem, just make sure your pots have drainage holes so excess water can escape.

Fertilizing​
Summer is the season when your Tradescantias really wake up and start growing, and to keep up that energy, they need a bit of food. Fertilize about once a month and any good-quality liquid fertilizer for houseplants works great. I usually dilute it to half the recommended strength to avoid overfeeding, which can cause more harm than good.

Keep an eye out for signs that your plant might be missing nutrients: slow or no growth, unusually small or wrinkly leaves, or yellowing leaves.

Pruning​
The summer sun will make your plants grow faster, which means you’ll probably need to chop and prop your Tradescantias more often. And if you don’t keep up with it, they can easily grow out of control.

But the good news is, it also gives you the chance to get that full, bushy plant you’ve always wanted.

Trim off any long, leggy, or unhealthy stems. Don’t be afraid to cut back more than you think, Tradescantias are tough and bounce back fast. Every cut encourages new growth.

You can replant the cuttings straight back into the same pot. Just stick them into the soil, and in no time they’ll root and fill out the plant. It’s a super easy way to turn a small, scraggly plant into a beautiful, bushy one.

And if you end up with more cuttings than you have room for, why not plant them outside? Either in pots or directly in the ground.

Pests​
Unfortunately, summer isn’t just great for plants, it’s also prime time for pests. Warm weather brings out spider mites, aphids, thrips, and mealybugs, and if you’re not keeping an eye out, they can spread fast.

It’s usually the newest growth that gets hit first. Keep an eye out for brown or misshapen new leaves, or leaves that stay small and don’t open properly. You might also notice silvery or brown patches, sticky residue, or tiny bugs crawling around.

It’s especially important to watch your indoor plants. Outdoors, pests often stay in check thanks to natural predators. Indoors, there’s nothing to stop them from multiplying quickly. That’s why regular checks are so important.

If you plan to bring outdoor Tradescantias back inside, you need a plan. I recommend quarantining and treating them thoroughly before letting them anywhere near your other plants. Personally, I have a simple rule: once a plant goes outside, it stays outside. It saves me a lot of stress, especially when it comes to thrips, which are incredibly hard to get rid of once they make it indoors.

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One Last Summer Tip

If you end up with more cuttings than you have space for, don’t let them go to waste! Pop them into a few pretty vases and use them as table decorations. I love doing this in the summer. It adds such a fresh and lively touch to any room, and it’s a perfect alternative to cut flowers that fade after just a few days anyway.

Tradescantias in water can stay happy for a long time. And if you leave them in water for several weeks, just add a little fertilizer made for hydroponics to help them stay strong even longer.

It’s simple, beautiful, and practical, and your guests will love it too.

Wrapping Up

That’s it for this round of summer care tips, hopefully they’ll help you and your Tradescantias enjoy the season to the fullest.

Now it’s time for a little break on my end. I’ll be taking some time off to enjoy summer with my family, and hopefully spend lots of sunny days in the garden, caring for my Tradescantias, and my little veggie patch too.

That means the next newsletter will land in your inbox in about four weeks. Until then, take care of yourself and your plants, and enjoy everything this season has to offer!

Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

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It’s easy to think you’re doing something wrong. Maybe it needs more light? Or water? Or maybe it’s just not happy? But in many cases, it’s not your care at all, it’s the effect of plant growth regulators wearing off.

In this week’s newsletter, I’ll go through what growth regulators are, how they affect your Tradescantias, and how to tell if a plant has been treated. It’s something I wish I had known earlier myself.

Also, the Tradescantia of the Week is the European Pink Dragon, a plant I wasn’t sure about at first, but that has slowly become a favorite.

Let’s jump in!

Tradescantia of the week: European Pink Dragon

Have you heard of the Tradescantia Pink Dragon? It can actually mean two different plants, one from Europe and one from the US. No one really knows which one came first, or why they ended up with the same name. To tell them apart, people usually call them European Pink Dragon and US Pink Dragon.

They’re similar, but not quite the same. Both have tiny hairs on their leaves, but the US version has longer, more pointed leaves, while the EU version has more rounded leaves.

The European Pink Dragon belongs to the Continental group, a group of Tradescantias with unknown origin, likely hybrids.

Just like the others in this group, it grows in a compact, bushy way and branches out easily. Its leaves are slightly asymmetric, with rounded edges and covered in fine little hairs.

To be honest, I wasn’t a huge fan at first. It didn’t grow much and looked kind of boring. But slowly, it won me over, and now it’s become one of my favorites (don’t I say that about all of them? 😅).

The variegation is pretty stable too, which means I don’t have to constantly check if it’s reverting. And even with a bit of recent neglect, it keeps growing, slowly but steadily.

Tradescantia and growth regulators

Have you ever brought home a cute little Tradescantia with short stems and tightly packed little leaves, only to see it change completely after a few months?

Suddenly it’s stretching out, the leaves are further apart, and the whole plant just looks... different? There’s a reason for that, and it’s called plant growth regulators, or PGRs.

Plant growth regulators are substances that affect how a plant grows. They’re actually based on natural plant hormones, but in this case, they’re made synthetically and added by humans. When these are used on a plant, they can override its natural signals and tell it to grow in a different way.

PGRs are often used by large commercial growers. Because when they’re producing thousands of plants at once, they want them to look neat, compact, and identical. Growth regulators slow down the plant’s development. They keep the stems short, make the leaves stay small, and reduce the space between the leaves. The result is a cute little plant that looks perfect in a pot, dense, tidy, and ready for sale.

The important thing to know is that PGRs don’t harm the plant. They just create temporary changes in how it grows. But those changes can be pretty drastic and they can definitely confuse plant owners. Two plants of the exact same variety can look completely different if one of them has been treated with PGRs and the other hasn’t.

The effect of the treatment can last anywhere from a few weeks to over a year, depending on how much was used, the plant’s environment, and how fast it grows. But one thing is certain: the effect will always fade. Eventually, the plant goes back to its natural way of growing, usually with longer stems, bigger and different shaped leaves, and a less compact look.

So if your plant starts changing after a while at home, that’s not something you’ve done wrong. It’s just the PGRs wearing off.

How can you tell if a plant has been treated with PGRs?​
The easiest way is to think about where the plant came from. PGRs are mainly used by big growers who produce plants for large chains and garden centers.

You can also try to spot it by how the plant looks. Plants treated with PGRs often are more compact with unusually small, tight leaves.

There’s no need to worry though. The effects will wear off eventually.

Wrapping Up with a Few Flowers

I’m so happy that summer is finally here, where I live, we’re still waiting for the warmer summer weather, it’s been a bit chilly for what’s supposed to be late May. But the plants don’t seem to mind. My Andersonianas have already started popping up from the ground, and they look just about ready to bloom.

So to wrap things up this week, I thought I’d share a few Tradescantia flowers.

Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

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But did you know there are 21 different named cultivars? Some of them look so similar it’s almost impossible to tell them apart unless you know exactly what to look for.

In this issue, I’ll go through what makes Zebrina special, why it can be tricky to identify, and share a few fun facts you might not have heard before. Plus, I’ve made a little chart to show just how alike some of them really are.

And to wrap things up, I’ll share the story behind how Tradescantia got its name.

Tradescantia Zebrina

Tradescantia zebrina is probably the most common Tradescantia grown as a houseplant. And it’s easy to see why. With its shimmering silver-striped leaves, it stands out in any home. Most cultivars in this species have those classic silver stripes, but there are a few exceptions. It’s also the species of tropical Tradescantia with the most named cultivars. Right now, there are 21 named cultivars in circulation

Tradescantia zebrina originally comes from southern Mexico and Guatemala, where the climate is warm and humid. In the wild, it grows under trees in forests or near rivers and streams. It’s used to filtered light from above, rich soil, and moist air, ideal conditions for a plant that loves to trail, spread, and root wherever it can.

Over the years, Tradescantia zebrina has gone by many different names. The most common older name is Zebrina pendula, which you’ll still see in some plant books and labels. But today, it’s officially classified as part of the Tradescantia genus.

It’s also commonly known as Inch Plant, a name that refers to the spacing between the leaves, about an inch apart along the stem. The name Silver Inch Plant is also used, highlighting the plant’s shimmering silver stripes. These names are still popular, especially in English-speaking countries, though they can sometimes be used for other Tradescantias too.

In Sweden, it’s known as Zebrablad, which simply translates to zebra leaf.

The most common Zebrina cultivar is Violet Hill, also known under names like Silver Plus, Pink Joy, and Red Gem. It’s fairly easy to recognize because it has small bumps in the center of the leaves, something that’s unique to Violet Hill and one other type: Minima. Minima also has those bumps, but its silver stripes form a zigzag pattern, unlike the straight lines on Violet Hill.

Another well-known cultivar is Burgundy, which also goes by names like Purple Joy, Purple Passion, and Red Jewel. It has two look-alikes: Deep Purple and Little Hill. These can be tricky to tell apart, but since they’re not as common, chances are you’re looking at a Burgundy, unless you’ve been specifically hunting for the others.

Variegated Zebrinas

Zebrina ‘Quadricolor’, ‘HappiLee’, and ‘Discolor Multicolor’

These are three variegated cultivars belonging to the Zebrina species. At first, they can be challenging to tell apart, but there are some clues to help identify them. While some suggest checking for hair or colour on the leaves to tell them apart, the amount of hair can vary, and so can the colour and it makes it an unreliable method for differentiating them. It’s better to check the silver stripes. ‘Quadricolor’ has the widest stripes, which cover half of the leaf and appear solid. ‘HappiLee’s stripes are slightly narrower with a distinctive zigzag pattern. And ‘Discolor Multicolor’ has the thinnest stripes, with a broken appearance.

Different types of Tradescantia Zebrina

This is not a complete list, like I mentioned earlier, there are 21 different Zebrinas, and these are just a few of them.

Below are a chart of nine different Tradescantia zebrinas, most of them look almost identical. Charts like this are often used to try and identify Tradescantias, but they’re not very reliable. They usually don’t include all possible varieties, and the plants themselves can look very different depending on their growing conditions.

Unless you know exactly what to look for, it’s almost impossible to make a correct ID from a chart like this. I mostly made it just to show how similar they can be.

How Tradescantia Got Its Name

The name Tradescantia is a tribute to two English botanists, John Tradescant the Elder and his son, John Tradescant the Younger. They lived in the 1600s and were both famous gardeners and plant collectors.

The Tradescants worked as gardeners to the British royal family, including King Charles I of England, and helped design gardens filled with rare and exotic plants. Their job gave them the chance to travel and collect plants from all over the world, including Russia, Africa, and the Americas.

At home in England, they created one of the first botanical gardens with plants from many different countries. They also started a small museum called The Ark, where they displayed not only plants but also stones, shells, and man-made objects they had collected on their travels. It was one of the first public museums in England.

Thanks to their work, passion, and discoveries, the Tradescants helped shape what we now call modern botany. To honor their contributions, the plant genus Tradescantia was named after them.

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

For me, that means I’ve started getting ready to move some of my Tradescantias outdoors.

Are you planning to have any of your Tradescantias outside this summer?

In this newsletter, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to make sure your plants are happy in the summer sun.

Plus, don’t miss the Tradescantia of the Week—Zebrina Tikal. Is it really plagued by an incurable virus?

I’ll dive into that intriguing topic too.

Tradescantia of the week: Tradescantia Zebrina Tikal

Tradescantia of the Week: Zebrina Tikal

This week’s highlight is Zebrina Tikal, a variety collected from the wild in Guatemala in 2013, and named after the area in which it was found. Its most interesting features are the blood-red pinstripes that appears in bright light. It also has the typical Zebrina silver stripes and it blooms with light purple flowers.

However, Zebrina Tikal is not without its quirks. Many people have noticed that it seems to be prone to brown spots, leaf curling, and other signs of distress. This often lead to speculation about its health. When it first appeared, there were rumors that it had a virus or even bacterial infections. But no evidence has ever supported these claims. And there have never been any reports that it has spread to other plants. It just seems like this particular variety is just prone to these imperfections.

If you own a Zebrina Tikal, adjusting its environment can make a big difference. Some say that it gets worse in cold temperatures and that it prefers warmer temperatures. From my own experience, it seems to prefer moderate sunlight and benefits from higher humidity. It’s good to know that these issues are nothing serious and won’t spread to your other plants.

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Bringing Your Tradescantias Outdoors for Summer

Summer is my favorite season. Not just because I’m not a fan of the cold, but also because I enjoy watching everything turn green and the flowers bloom. This is true for my Tradescantias as well. They look great indoors, but they show their best colours when they’re outside in the summer sun! So, as soon as there’s no more risk of frost, I begin the process of moving my Tradescantias outdoors.

However, while it’s exciting to bring your Tradescantias into the fresh air, there are a couple of important considerations to keep in mind. From getting them used to their new environment to understanding their needs for water, fertilizer, and sunlight, moving your plants outdoors takes a bit of planning and care. Let’s look at how you can safely move your Tradescantias outside, making they stay healthy and beautiful all season long.

Deciding Which Tradescantias to Move Outdoors

Before you start moving any plants outside for the summer, it’s important to think ahead to autumn. One of the biggest risks of bringing indoor plants back inside after summer is accidentally introducing pests into your home. This doesn’t have to be a problem if you have a plan in place. Consider setting up a quarantine area, using preventive treatments, or simply keeping a close eye on them to manage any potential pest issues.

Another strategy is to choose which plants you’re okay with leaving outside over the winter. That’s what I often do. I take cuttings and plant them outside, or when I’m restarting a plant indoors, I’ll plant out the old root ball. This way, I don’t have to worry about bringing hitchhikers back inside.

A third option, if you have the space, is to use a storage area or similar space where you can place them during the winter. This past winter, I kept some of my plants in a storage room next to a window. As long as the temperature doesn’t drop below freezing, they should be fine there.​

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The Right Temperatures for Moving Tradescantias Outdoors

Temperatures are important in determining when to move your Tradescantias outside. These plants are sensitive to cold, and it’s important to wait until the risk of frost has completely passed before transitioning them outdoors. In many regions, this generally means waiting until late spring or early summer, depending on your local climate.

The ideal temperature for Tradescantias outdoors is when nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 10°C (50°F). If temperatures drop below this, the plants can suffer from cold stress, which may cause damage or slow their growth significantly.

Before you decide to move your plants outside, keep an eye on the local weather forecast. A sudden cold snap can undo all your hard work of acclimatization. If you’re in a region where the weather can be unpredictable, consider using a frost blanket temporarily to protect your plants if unexpected cold weather strikes.

Acclimatizing Your Tradescantias to Outdoor Conditions

When you’re ready to move your Tradescantias outside, it’s important to help them get used to the new environment gradually. This will help your plants adjust without stress.

Start by placing your Tradescantias in a shaded, protected area outside for a few hours each day. Gradually increase their exposure to sunlight over the course of a week or two. This slow transition helps prevent shock from the sudden change in temperature, light, and air flow which they aren’t used to indoors.

Keep a close eye on your plants during this period. Watch for signs of stress, such as wilting or sunburnt leaves, and adjust their exposure accordingly. Remember, the goal is to slowly introduce them to more direct sunlight, until they are comfortable staying outside for the whole day.

Alternatively, if you’re like me and don’t have the patience for a gradual acclimatization, you can plant them directly outdoors. It’s important to understand that they will likely struggle at first, and may even wilt completely. However, over time, they will recover and the new growth will be stronger and adapted to the new environment. It’s important to note that this method works best for plants with a well-established root system; cuttings might find it more challenging.

Placement and Sunlight for Tradescantias Outdoors

Choosing the right spot for your Tradescantias outdoors is important for their growth and overall health, and the best location can vary depending on the specific variety. While most Tradescantias love a lot of sunlight, not all can handle too much direct sun without some negative effects.

The Pallidas, and Sillamontanas really like bright conditions and handle direct sunlight well. In contrast, most green types of Tradescantias are quite adaptable and can do well in both sunny and moderately shaded areas.

The variegated varieties are more sensitive to strong sunlight. Although they can adjust to bright conditions, too much direct sun may cause their leaves to burn, so areas that receive filtered sunlight through trees are ideal.

It’s usually more of a problem if Tradescantias are placed in very shaded areas. Conditions that are too dark and damp can lead to issues similar to overwatering seen with indoor plants, such as root rot and limp, yellowing leaves.

Watering Needs for Outdoor Tradescantias

The watering needs for your Tradescantias vary depending on where they are placed. For plants in smaller pots, it’s important to keep an eye on them and water them according to their needs. These pots can dry out quickly, especially in warm, sunny weather, but it’s also important to avoid overwatering. Allow the soil in these smaller pots to dry out mostly between waterings to prevent any issues with excess moisture.

In contrast, Tradescantias planted in larger pots or directly in the ground generally require very little watering. The larger volume of soil retains moisture longer and provides more stability in hydration. But during periods of warm weather with no rain, it’s important to check the soil and water the plants if necessary.

Regardless of the size of the pot, always make sure there are drainage holes.

Fertilizing Outdoor Tradescantias

How often you need to fertilize your Tradescantias really depends on where they’re growing. If you have your plants in small pots, it’s a good idea to fertilize them just like you would with your indoor plants. This means giving them a dose of half-strength fertilizer once a month. This helps to makes sure they get enough nutrients without overfeeding.

For Tradescantias in larger pots or planted directly in the ground, they generally don’t need as much fertilizer. However, it’s still beneficial to give them some nutrients every 6 to 8 weeks.

There are many different types of fertilizers available. Choose one that suits your needs and is easy use.

Managing Pests on Outdoor Tradescantias

One advantage of outdoor plants is that natural enemies often help keep pest populations under control. However, some pests might still cause trouble. It’s important to handle any pest problems carefully to avoid harming beneficial insects, including pollinators.

Aphids can be managed effectively by spraying the affected plants with a soap solution.

Thrips are generally less problematic outdoors than indoors because natural predators in the garden usually keep them in check.

Last year, I encountered slugs that were damaging my Andersonianas. I managed this by using slug pellets scattered on the ground around the plants.

In all cases, it’s important to choose pest control solutions that are effective against the specific pests you are dealing with but that do not harm the environment or pollinators.

Consider Local Regulations

In some places, Tradescantias are considered invasive species, which can disrupt local ecosystems by outcompeting native plants. It’s important to check local regulations before planting them directly in the ground. If they are deemed invasive, consider keeping your Tradescantias in containers or raised beds to prevent them from spreading uncontrollably.

Ready to Enjoy Your Outdoor Tradescantias?

I hope this guide helps you feel prepared to move your Tradescantias outdoors this summer.

If you have any questions along the way or need a bit more advice on caring for your Tradescantias, don’t hesitate to reach out.

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

These little pests can be really sneaky. Often, by the time you find them, they’ve been around for a while. They’re small, but don’t let that fool you, they can cause some serious damage. That’s why finding them early and taking action quickly is important.

They can be quite difficult to get rid of once they’ve settled in. But it’s not hopeless, there are effective ways to prevent and get rid of them.

In this newsletter, I’ll show you how to spot thrips early and share some effective ways to get rid of them before they harm your Tradescantias.

But first, let’s have a look at the Tradescantia of the week!

Tradescantia of the week: Maiden’s Blush

Maiden’s Blush is a very popular cultivar, and it’s easy to see why. It has a stunning and unusual pink variegation. Unlike many plants whose variegation depends on light, and often doesn’t return if it disappears, Maiden’s Blush’s colour changes with the temperature. Its variegation can completely disappear and then reappear when the temperatures drop or start to fluctuate.

I’ve never seen the variegation when I’ve kept it indoors, but every summer, when I plant it outside in my garden, those beautiful colours quickly come back!

The species of Maiden’s Blush is uncertain, it has been described as both Fluminensis and Crassula, but confirming either has not been possible, so it is considered a hybrid. It was first documented in 1992, so it has been around for quite some time.

You might have seen this plant referred to as Andersoniana Blushing Bride? There’s quite a bit of confusion with these names. Although most of the time when people mention Blushing Bride, they are referring to Maiden’s Blush, there actually is a real Andersoniana Blushing Bride. This true Andersoniana Blushing Bride belongs to the Andersoniana group and is a frost-hardy cultivar with long, grass-like leaves and pink flowers. It was created in the 90s, but doesn’t seem to be in cultivation today.

How to get rid of thrips

What Are Thrips?

Thrips are tiny insects that feed by sucking the sap from the leaves, which can lead to a lot of damage on you plant. Thrips can be very difficult to spot due to their small size, but finding them early can make a huge difference. Once they make themselves at home, getting rid of them can be challenging. They tend to hide within the nooks and crannies of plant leaves and stems. But, with the right methods, there’s hope to get rid of these pesky invaders!

How to Identify Thrips

Thrips are very small, usually only about 1-2 millimeters in length, and can be yellow, brown, or black. They have elongated bodies and wings, which are often difficult to see without using a magnifying glass. Here are some signs to look for:

Unusual New Growth and Small Dimples: The very first signs of thrips are often unusual new growth and small dimples on the newest leaves. This can be easy to miss. Thrips attack the newest growth first, causing the new leaves to not unroll as usual or to have an irregular shape.

Silvery Spots on the Leaves: Another early sign of thrips is silvery spots on the leaves. This happens because thrips suck the sap from the leaves, causing cell damage. These spots show up first on the back of the leaves, but eventually appear on the front as well. They can easily be mistaken for burn marks, so keep an eye out if you find the next sign.

Black Dots: If you find tiny black dots on the leaves and stems, this is a sure sign of thrips—these are their droppings.

Dead Leaves and Stunted Growth: Eventually, infested plants will stop growing and develop a lot of dead leaves and stems. Leaves might also curl or develop unusual shapes.

Visible Thrips: You might see the thrips themselves; they look like tiny, slender insects moving quickly.

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Preventing Thrips

Thrips are a nightmare to get rid of once they’ve set up home in your plant. It’s always best to do what you can to prevent them from finding your plants in the first place. There are many steps you can take to minimize the risk of a thrips invasion:

Regular Inspection: Make it a habit to regularly check your plants for early signs of pests. Pay special attention to new growth and the undersides of leaves where thrips are likely to hide.

Proper Watering: Make sure your Tradescantias are watered correctly. Overwatering can create a humid environment that attracts pests. Let the soil dry out between waterings.

Cleanliness: Keep your plants and their surroundings clean. Remove dead leaves and debris from the soil surface to eliminate potential hiding spots for pests.

Quarantine New Plants: Always isolate new plants for a few weeks before introducing them to your existing collection. This helps prevent any hidden pests from spreading. I have to admit that I’m quite bad at quarantining my new plants, but I’ve also regretted that a couple of times.

Healthy Plants: Keep your plants healthy by providing the right amount of light, water, and nutrients. Healthy plants are more resilient and less attractive to pests.

Neem Oil: Neem oil is popular method to use against pests and can be used as a preventative. But I would recommend being careful when spraying neem oil on your Tradescantia leaves. I did that once on my Nanouk, and the next day it had soft, sticky leaves. It survived, but it wasn’t happy.​​

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What to Do When You Find Thrips

I know the feeling when you find that silvery spot, you just want to throw out that plant! But it’s not always necessary. Depending on the size of the invasion, there are things you can do!

First off, assess the size of the infestation and decide how much you want to keep the plant. Sometimes, it might be easier to take a few cuttings and treat those rather than trying to save the whole plant. Treating a few cuttings will also increase your chances of really getting rid of the pests.

Quarantine the plant:​ It’s important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of your plants to prevent the thrips from spreading. Check all the other plants in the same room to see if it has spread. Thrips can fly, although not very far, so they can spread to nearby plants.

Prune affected areas:​ If you decide to keep the whole plant, trim off any visible infested parts of the plant. Get rid of the pruned parts in a sealed bag to prevent the pests from spreading.

Rinse the plant and give it a soap bath:​ Gently rinse the plant with water to rinse off as many thrips as possible. Be sure to target the undersides of the leaves and other hiding spots. I also recommend giving it a soap bath or spraying it with a soapy solution (1 tablespoon of castile soap per liter of water).

Repeat treatments:​ You need to repeat treatments every 3-4 days until you no longer see signs of thrips. Soap will only kill thrips when in contact with them, so this method requires persistence. It also doesn’t affect the eggs, so you want to make sure you get them when they hatch.

Monitor and Maintain:​ This is the last but not least important step. Thrips have a long life cycle, up to 60 days from egg to death. So it’s important to keep your plant under observation for quite some time after you think you’ve gotten rid of all the thrips. Keep a close eye on the isolated plant and your other plants for any signs of thrips.

Alternative Treatments

Natural Predators:​ There’s also the option of getting predatory bugs like ladybugs or predatory mites. It’s a great way to combat pests without any harmful chemicals. This will also require less work from you since the bugs do most of the work.

Pesticides:​ If nothing else works, then there are pesticides. I would advise using this as a last resort. I cannot give specific advice on which to use since the availability differs a lot in different parts of the world. In Sweden, many pesticides can no longer be sold because they not only kill the pests but also all the other beneficial insects.

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As we wrap up, I hope you’ve found this helpful and that it has prepared you better for the next time these pesky pests show up!

I know how annoying they can be, but remember, it’s not hopeless! If you have any questions or need more advice, please don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m here to help!
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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

To find out, I did an experiment with my Nanouk to see if that’s what really causes those ugly spots. The good news? I’ve discovered that water might not be the big problem we thought it was! More on this in the main story.

Also in this issue, how much do you know about the frost-hardy Tradescantias, the Andersonianas? These aren’t your usual houseplants. They look a bit different, but they bloom beautifully, and they can handle the cold, meaning they’re a perfect addition to the garden!

And exciting news for those of you looking to add to your plant collection: I’m now selling Tradescantia cuttings! I have quite a few that are hard to find anywhere else, and for the first time, I’m shipping across the EU.

Tradescantia of the week: Andersoniana

Did you know there are Tradescantias that can stay outside all year round? You might have come across the name Tradescantia Andersoniana. These aren’t your typical tropical Tradescantias that we often keep indoors for their colourful leaves that come in all shapes and sizes. Instead, Andersonianas are famous for their lovely flowers and being able to withstand the cold.

Unlike the tropical varieties with their colourful leaves, Andersonianas have long, grass-like leaves. They still have the typical three-petaled flowers, which, just like the tropical ones, only last a day. They originate from North America, but these plants have also found their way into gardens across Europe!

The most well-known frost-hardy species is Tradescantia Virginiana, and historically, almost all garden cultivars were labelled as this species. However, different species of Tradescantia in the wild crossed with each other repeatedly, creating a variety of new hybrids. A botanist named Edgar Anderson traced these back to originating from three species: Virginiana, Ohiensis, and Subaspera. Since they were all hybrids with unclear origins, they were grouped together under the name Andersoniana. The number of plants in this group is constantly growing as new cultivars are discovered and named. These plants are great at self-seeding and creating new open-pollinated hybrids. There’s probably 70-80 different cultivars in circulation today!

I started my Andersoniana collection last year, so I haven’t been growing them for long. But I loved that once they settled in, they flowered all summer. According to some sources, they might not survive if the temperature drops too low for extended periods, below -10 to -15°C (14 to 5°F). However, we have quite mild winters here in the south of Sweden, with only a few days at a time below 0°C (32°F).

They don’t look like much now, but I can tell that most of them have survived the winter, and I can’t wait to see them spring back to life now that spring is here. I have already ordered quite a few more and I’m looking forward to adding the new ones to my garden. If you’re thinking of adding Andersonianas to your garden, now’s the time, as they’re usually only sold during spring.

My Water-on-the-Leaves Experiment

It’s common advice to never let the leaves of your Tradescantia get wet, saying that it leads to brown spots and leaf rot. For a long time, I believed this too.

However, I’ve come to question this advice. Many people swear that getting the leaves wet ruined their Tradescantia, but I think it’s likely other factors causing the brown spots on the leaves. Besides, if a plant can’t handle getting its leaves wet, how can it survive outdoors in the rain? Yes, there’s natural airflow outside that isn’t present indoors, but I don’t think that fully explains it.

So, I decided to run a little experiment to see if it really is water on the leaves causing problems. I took cuttings from the same Nanouk plant, planted them in identical soil mixes, and placed them in the same spot near a bright window with just a little direct light for a few hours each day. The only difference? I only bottom-watered one, while I misted the other daily for 10 days.

The result? After 10 days, they both looked the same. Yes, I know there are probably many flaws with my experiment. But if water on the leaves were truly problematic, I believe it would have shown some effects within those 10 days. I think the “water on the leaves” theory is often an excuse people use when they’re unsure of the actual problem.

If your Tradescantia starts showing brown spots on the leaves, I’d suggest checking for other causes first: overwatering, sunburn, pests... Or, if it’s just a few spots, maybe just let it be. Tradescantias, especially Nanouk, tend to get brown spots on their leaves quite easily without it meaning anything serious.

Exciting News: My Cuttings Are Going International!

This week, I sent off my first batch of cuttings for the year, all the way to France!

I began selling cuttings last year, but initially, I could only ship within Sweden. This year, I’m excited to expand my reach to include all EU countries. Unfortunately, I’m not able to ship outside the EU at the moment, as it requires a phytosanitary certificate, which is quite costly.

Packing with Care: I take great care in packaging the cuttings. I wrap the bottom of the stems in wet paper, secure it with plastic wrap, and attach a name tag to each cutting so you know exactly which one you’re getting. Then, they’re placed into a plastic bag and packed in a sturdy cardboard box to make sure they arrive safely.

Interested in Expanding Your Collection? Send an email to katja@exploringtradescantias.com.

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

Plus, don’t miss the Community Highlight featuring Chloe from the UK. She’ll show some of the Tradescantias in her collection and share her best tip for keeping them happy!

Tradescantia Pallida

When most people hear “Pallida,” they might think of the name “Purple Heart” or just a purple plant. However, there’s much more to explore about this Tradescantia species.

Pallida is not the complete name of a Tradescantia cultivar; it’s a species, a group of Tradescantia in which 11 cultivars belong. A species is defined as a group where all individuals are similar enough to each other to be considered having matching features and are all able to reproduce with each other to produce fertile offspring.

Pallidas have thick, upright stems and large, fleshy and hairy leaves. Pallidas tolerate dry conditions well and are commonly seen thriving in sunny spots in warmer countries.

Pallidas have developed anthocyanins, purple pigments that protect them from the sun. This is why they tolerate and need plenty of sunlight to stay healthy. Along with the Sillamontana species, they are among the most sun-demanding Tradescantias. Especially the purple cultivars, Purpurea, Purple Pixie, and Kartuz Giant, need a lot light to stay healthy and purple, and will quickly show signs of sun deficiency if they don’t get enough. If you keep them indoors, it’s best to place them in your brightest window.

The hairs on their leaves help prevent water loss and serve as a defense against insects. They can store water in their stems and leaves and are very drought-tolerant. So you don’t need to worry if you forget to water your Pallida for a few days.

The most common cultivar is ‘Purpurea,’ which has been popular since the 1950s. It was originally discovered in the wild in Central America in the early 20th century.

Besides Purpurea, there are ten other stunning varieties to explore!

Two of them were recently introduced by Avery Rowe, and are seedlings grown from cross-pollinating other Pallidas, Pallida Raindrop and Pallida Froglet.

What About Purple Heart?

Purple Heart is probably the name we hear the most when it comes to Pallidas. But there’s a problem with calling your purple Pallida “Purple Heart.”

There is no Tradescantia named “Purple Heart”!

It’s a synonym that is used for two different cultivars. At first, ‘Purpurea’ was the one referred to as “Purple Heart,” but then a few years ago, ‘Purple Pixie’ popped up and began to be sold under the same name. These two are very similar, so it’s easy to get them confused, but if you know what to look for, they each have their distinct features.

The main difference between ‘Purpurea’ and ‘Purple Pixie’ is in their leaf shape and colour. ‘Purpurea’ has longer and narrower leaves with a more gray-greenish purple colour, while ‘Purple Pixie’ has shorter and broader leaves with a deeper purple colour. Additionally, ‘Purpurea’ has slightly more space between the leaves than ‘Purple Pixie’ does.

Seedling Update

Talking about Pallidas, a few months ago, I planted some Tradescantia seeds that I got from cross-pollinating a Purple Pixie and Ocampo White. Three of the seeds germinated. Two of them are still quite small and haven’t grown much.

But here’s the third one! It might not be special enough to become a new cultivar, but it’s my very first seedling, and I’m in love with it anyway!

Community Highlight:

This week, let’s get to know Chloe, a Tradescantia enthusiast from the UK. You can catch up with her plant adventures and connect on Instagram @clohinton.

What’s your favorite Tradescantia and why?​
“My favourite is either my Spathacea Sitara or my Sillamontana Gold Stripes. I love the fluffy ones 🤩”

Which was your first Tradescantia, and where did you get it?​
“My first Tradescantia was a type of Zebrina, which I decided to rescue from work. I took cuttings from their plant and kept them for myself.”

What’s the #1 Tradescantia on your wishlist?​
“I’d like to get more Spathaceas, maybe some yellow ones.”

What’s one care tip or trick you swear by for your Tradescantias?​
“Rain water only!”

Any fun or unexpected stories about your Tradescantias you’d like to share?​
“My other half didn’t overly like them until I brought home the Sitara that I’d got on Marketplace.

Thank you, Chloe, for sharing your Tradescantia stories and tips with us!

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Do you have a Tradescantia collection? Or maybe one or two you’re especially proud of? Why not show it off in the next newsletter’s Community Highlight?

Reply to this email, email me at katja@exploringtradescantias.com, or send me a DM on Instagram, I’d love to feature your favorite plants!

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!

You’re not alone, and that’s one of the topics we’re covering this week! Earlier this week, I reached out for your Tradescantia questions, and you certainly delivered.

I’ll talk about the difference between Pallida and Purple Heart, the secrets to successful propagation, and share tips on how to handle those pesky leaf spots.

But there’s more! Meet Sarah from the UK in our Community Highlight and learn about her stunning Zebrina. Plus, don’t miss our Tradescantia of the Week, Spathacea Cream!

Tradescantia of the week:

Spathacea Cream

This week, I wanted to talk about Spathacea Cream!

It’s a yellow variegated Tradescantia, about the same size as Spathacea Sitara.

Spathaceas, often called Rhoeo, are quite different from other Tradescantias, they grow in upright rosettes with longer leaves and a more compact way of growing. There are a couple of Spathaceas in circulation today, all of them much smaller than the wild species.

Cream has been around since 2021-2022 and is mostly found among collectors in Europe. It has long, narrow leaves that are completely hairless. It has sectoral variegation, meaning that the variegation shows up in random stripes on the leaves, varying in size, but each stripe extends from the base to the end of the leaf.

Tradescantia Q & A: All your questions anwered

Earlier this week, I asked you all on Instagram to send in your questions about Tradescantias, and you came through with some great ones!

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Question:​
I have a Tradescantia Zebrina, and it keeps falling over the sides of the pot, so I have staked it. Does it like doing this, or does it need support?

Answer:​
Tradescantias are naturally creeping plants, which means they spread along the ground and root wherever they touch. They start growing upwards, but as they get longer, they become too heavy to support themselves and begin to fall over. This is completely normal, and using stakes to keep them upright isn’t normal for them. However, it’s all up to you and how you want your plant to look. If you prefer it more upright, one way is to keep the stems shorter by trimming them back whenever they get too long to support themselves. Otherwise, it’s perfectly fine to let them fall over and grow however they want.

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Question: The stems on my Tradescantia are dying at the base but are still alive at the ends. What should I do?

Answer: As I mentioned earlier, Tradescantias are creeping plants. Having stems that only attach to the soil at one point is not natural for them, and they will eventually not be able to support themselves. When a stem becomes too long to support itself, the base of the stem gets weak, and the leaves start turning brown. This is totally normal. The length at which the stems start to struggle varies from one type of Tradescantia to another. To avoid this, just make sure to regularly trim and replant the ends, “chop and prop”.

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Question: What’s the difference between Purple Heart and Pallida? They look so similar!

Answer: Purple Heart and Pallida often get mixed up, but they refer to slightly different things. Pallida is the name of a Tradescantia species, to which Purple Heart belongs. However, the name Purple Heart is an incorrect nickname that’s often used for two types of Tradescantia Pallida: Purpurea and Purple Pixie. They’re very similar, but Purpurea has long, narrow leaves while the leaves on Purple Pixie are shorter and wider.

Question: Can you use a self-watering pot for Tradescantias?

Answer: Yes, you can use a self-watering pot for Tradescantias, although I don’t recommend it for smaller plants without a well-developed root system. Tradescantias have somewhat succulent qualities, meaning they can store water in their stems and leaves. This makes them quite tolerant of drying out and more at risk of overwatering. However, if you have a large Tradescantia that dries out in less than a week after watering, a self-watering pot can be beneficial to extend the time between waterings. Just make sure to let the pot dry out before you refill the reservoir.

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Question: Where can I buy Tradescantias? The local plant stores only have Nanouk and Zebrina.

Answer: I’ve found most of my Tradescantias through other collectors. Plant stores do stock them occasionally, so it’s definitely worth keeping an eye out. Alternatively, you can check online marketplaces like Etsy or eBay. LeafstorePL on Etsy is a great shop, and so is TradescantiaHub, which offers international shipping worldwide, and their shop is open until the end of March this time. Also, I’ll start selling cuttings once the weather gets a bit warmer, likely beginning in April, but I will only offer shipping within the EU. I’ll announce when I begin selling, so make sure to keep an eye for updates!

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Question: Can I have Tradescantias outdoors?

Answer: Absolutely, Tradescantias thrive outdoors. However, they don’t tolerate cold well and dislike temperatures below 10° Celsius (50° Fahrenheit). They start dying at temperatures below 0° Celsius (32° Fahrenheit). So, if you live in a cooler climate, you’ll need to bring them indoors during the winter months to keep them healthy.

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Question: What’s the best way to succeed at propagating a Nanouk?

Answer: Propagating a Nanouk isn’t any different from propagating other Tradescantias, it should be really easy to do. You can propagate directly in soil, but, if you prefer to see the roots develop, you can also start by rooting it in water, both methods work well. I’ve written a detailed article on propagating Tradescantias that covers everything you need to know. You can find it here.

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Question: Why are my Tradescantia propagations dying when I place them in soil?

Answer: There could be a couple of reasons why your Tradescantia propagations are struggling after being moved to soil. From my experience, the two most common issues are too little light and too much water. First, try placing your cuttings in a spot that gets more light. This should help them. Second, check the moisture level of the soil. If the soil feels too wet, or if the pot is too large and doesn’t allow the soil to dry out within a week, there’s likely too much moisture. This excess moisture can cause the cuttings to rot. You want the soil to be moist but not wet, and it should dry out completely before you water again.

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Question: What are the orangish spots common on Callisias? Is it rust/leaf spot, or is it normal?

Answer: Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon for Callisias, much like many Tradescantias, to develop brown or orangish spots. These spots might not always have a clear cause. The best advice I can give is to check the plant’s growing conditions. Make sure it’s getting enough light. Also, check if you might be overwatering, which could contribute to the problem. Consider whether the plant might benefit from some fertilizer. If the spots continue to appear, you might want to trim away the affected parts to give the plant a fresh start.

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Question: My tricolor is turning green, what should I do?

Answer: Tricolor, also known as Mundula Lisa, tends to revert quite easily, which means the variegation on the leaves starts to disappear. Even though this is impossible to prevent completely, the best way to manage it is to cut off the reverted stems. Cut them back to the last variegated leaf. This is important because the green stems are stronger and can take over if not controlled. By cutting back to the last variegated leaf, there’s a chance the plant will produce new growth with variegation.

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Question: Why does my Cerinthoides get black spots on the borders of the leaves?

Answer: Unfortunately, I don’t have a good answer for this issue. However, if it’s only affecting a few leaves and the rest of the plant appears healthy, it might not be a big issue.

Community Highlight

This week, let’s meet Sarah from the UK! She has the most beautiful Zebrina, and you can find her on Instagram as @piinkfruit​

What’s your favorite Tradescantia and why? My favourite is my little baby Nanouk because of the colours and stripes. But my number one favourite from my collection is my Zebrina Violet Hill because she was my first Tradescantia and is the biggest plant I own!

Which was your first Tradescantia, and where did you get it? My first Tradescantia was Zebrina Violet Hill. I was given a small cutting from a friend as a housewarming gift when I moved into my flat with my boyfriend.

What’s the #1 Tradescantia on your wishlist? Mundula Fairy Wings!!!!! I yearn for one. I think they’re so beautiful!!

What’s one care tip or trick you swear by for your Tradescantias? I think propagating to make the plant more full and bushy really changed things for me! Planting the stems directly back into the soil... They’re very low maintenance and easy to care for.

Any fun or unexpected stories about your Tradescantias you’d like to share? I recently did a Tradescantia trade with a friend!!! That was really fun. And that’s how I got my 2nd and 3rd Tradescantia plants!!

Thank you, Sarah, for sharing your beautiful Tradescantia with us!

Do you have a Tradescantia collection? Or maybe one or two you’re especially proud of? Why not show it off in the next newsletter’s Community Highlight?

Reply to this email, email me at katja@exploringtradescantias.com, or send me a DM on Instagram, I’d love to feature your favorite plants!

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Until next time, happy planting! 🌿

Katja

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Disclaimer: This is an affiliate link, which means I earn a small commission if you make a purchase using my code, at no extra cost to you. Your support helps me keep sharing Tradescantia tips and content—thank you!